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New Orleans is one of those rare cities that feels like home the moment you arrive. If I believed in past lives, I’d swear I’d lived here before. I’m a Claiborne, and there’s a long history of Claiborne blood in these parts.
I’m captivated by so many things about New Orleans—the local accents, the variety of music, the food, the neighborhoods from Bywater to Uptown, the French Quarter, the humid heat, the night fog, the deep history, and the city’s soulful, almost visible spirit.
On my most recent trip I had just returned to the U.S. from Japan. The contrast was striking: Japan’s subtle order and politeness made returning to the South—especially Louisiana—feel like a different world. People move differently here; they look and speak differently, and life unfolds at an unmistakably distinct pace. Compared to Japan, New Orleans feels raw and real in a way that reminded me of New York City streets. I love it.
Below are my favorite things to do in NOLA. If you love the city as I do, you’ll enjoy its languid rhythm. If you want more excitement, walk—New Orleans streets are full of colorful characters and unexpected moments. Enjoy!
Explore the Bywater
The Bywater is a hip neighborhood in the upper Ninth Ward, just below the Marigny. Known for hosting many volunteers after Hurricane Katrina, it’s full of small, colorful homes with character and pride. I stayed in an affordable Airbnb there—perfect for budget travelers. If you prefer more classic accommodations, consider the French Quarter or Garden District—but be sure to visit Bywater at least once.
Shake Sugary
When a sweet craving hits, head to Shake Sugary in the Bywater. This partly-vegan bakery delivers decadent treats. On my first visit I grabbed a Magic Bar to go—nutty, chocolatey, sweet with a hint of salt—and it was instantly devoured. We also tried a savory baked samosa and an outstanding vegan banana bread. If you’re treating yourself on vacation, this is the place to indulge.
Satsuma Café
For a hearty, mostly plant-friendly breakfast, Satsuma Café in the Bywater is a reliable choice. They offer solid vegan options, great coffee, and fresh juices. The food is good—simple, nourishing, and perfect for a healthy start to the day.
Pizza Delicious
The name says it all. Pizza Delicious serves an excellent vegan pizza topped with marinara, pesto, spinach, peppers, and onions, plus a tasty vegan eggplant-and-kale pasta. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating and fills up on weekends—come early or be ready to wait and enjoy the neighborhood vibe.
BJ’s in Bywater
BJ’s is a smoky local spot where the crowd skews young and the drinks are inexpensive. I wasn’t thrilled that smoking is allowed inside, and the bartender needed convincing for my bubbly cocktail request, but the live music and dancing made the evening memorable. I danced with a local man who shared his Katrina story—how he and his neighbors lost everything but kept their spirit. The band that night, King James & The Special Men, played soulful blues that got people moving.
HiHo for DJ Soul Sister
One Saturday night we ended up at HiHo where DJ Soul Sister spun real vinyl—soul, disco, and funk. We danced until we were sweaty and exhilarated. The party often peaks in the early morning hours; next time I’ll be sure to stay until 2–4 a.m. and dance the night away.
Sculpture Garden
For daytime culture, visit the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden next to NOMA in City Park. Ride bikes up Esplanade and enjoy the grand mansions and towering trees along the way. The garden features sculptures from artists around the world—my favorites included Karma by Do Ho Suh and Mother and Child by Fernando Botero. It’s a peaceful, inspiring place, especially in mild weather.
Once you arrive at City Park you can explore the grounds, visit NOMA, or walk the Sculpture Garden and take in the stories and forms that reflect New Orleans’ layered identity.
Garden District
The French Quarter and Garden District are among my favorite neighborhoods. Their architecture testifies to New Orleans’ long and distinct history, with European influences and tropical colors. Take a walking or bike tour to admire antebellum mansions and haunting cemeteries. Magazine Street is ideal for shopping, sipping a drink, and people-watching. While vegan options are more limited here, nearby spots like Superfood Bar offer healthy plant-based choices.
Superfood Bar
Superfood Bar claims to be one of the city’s first dedicated vegan spots. They serve wraps, salads, soups, desserts, smoothies, and juices. I had a Vietnamese-inspired wrap and a house-made kombucha—both fresh and satisfying. The food felt clean and thoughtfully prepared; the toasted wrap added a nice crunch. It’s a great option for a healthy, flavorful meal.
Frenchmen Street
For live music, Frenchmen Street is unbeatable. Book a table at Snug Harbor for refined jazz, or bounce between clubs like The Spotted Cat, Maison, and Blue Nile. You can also simply stand on the street—BYOB—and listen to impromptu brass or swing jazz on the corner. The music scene here is vibrant every night.
Royal St. in the French Quarter
I discovered the Hemmerling Gallery on Royal Street and spent hours immersed in the work. Royal Street is lined with galleries of all kinds—bring your wallet if you’re prone to buying art. Nearby you’ll find other galleries and unique shops that reward wandering and curiosity.
Meals from the Heart Café’s Pancakes
Three words: Vegan Blueberry Pancakes. Meals from the Heart Café in the French Market is a mother-and-son-run spot that serves what I consider some of the best pancakes anywhere. It’s a genuine, heartfelt meal and worth the visit.
Seed Restaurant
Seed serves vegan versions of New Orleans classics, including beignet-style treats that rival traditional beignets—hot, sugary, and fluffy. They also offer vegan po’ boys and gumbo. If you want plant-based takes on local favorites, Seed is a must-try.
I can’t wait to return to New Orleans. I want to experience Mardi Gras, Jazz Fest, and visit Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park. The city isn’t perfect—you might trip on uneven sidewalks or encounter more drunks than you’d like—but its warmth, music, food, and soul make it irresistible.
Have you been to NOLA? What are your favorite things to do there?
